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Beso wrote: |
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|
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<SNIP> |
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> you'll just have to try it out and monitor the thermal sensors after |
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> you've added it. if |
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> they have almost the same values that they had when using the original |
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> cooler then |
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> you should be able to safely substitute the base cooler. if you still |
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> want a good cooler |
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> i'd suggest cooler master or thermaltake coolers and dissipators that |
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> are really great |
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|
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Well, if he is going to buy new cooler, then why not spend extra couple |
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of $/€ and go for the best ? |
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I have Thermalright's IFX-14 on my Phenom 9950 and it is BIG but works |
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phenomenally. |
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|
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Good cooler and liquid metal thermal paste is my solution. Be careful |
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with aluminium, though. Liquid metal reportedly "loves" aluminium, but |
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love is of suicidal kind ;o) |
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|
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You have to be a bit careful with liquid metal, though. First, it |
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conducts electricity, so spills can be bad thing. |
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Second, you have to undestand when applying it that you are effectively |
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doing low temp soldering. |
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So, it is of _vital_ importance to get the liquid to _wet_ _both_ |
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surfaces. Since you can't do it with soldering iron and you don't have |
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chemical aids, you9 have to clean both surfaces ( fine grit paper etc), |
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apply a drop of metal liquid and rub it in with some sharp edged metal |
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(Xacto knife comes to mind). Sharp edge will create high pressure , |
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which will push liquid through oxide barrier. |
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Once you have done that, liquid will behave just as if it were molten |
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solder. You can then wipe off liquid with metal oxide remains from both |
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surfaces. |
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|
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After that, you have to ensure that there is just enough liquid to fill |
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in voids between both surfaces, so you add liquid by droplets until you |
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can slide CPU over heatsink and it feels wet. |
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After that, you are ready to mount whole thing. |
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|
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One nitpick with LM: you will have trouble getting it off CPU, so |
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warranty is kinda problematic. On the flip side: when was the last time |
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you killed the chip without you or something else ( board, PSU ) being |
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the culprit ? |